Custom Made Specs

My perfect bats specs would be:

2lb 10
Light Pick-up
SH
G1+
No Heartwood
25-30mm edges
Slight Bow
10 Grains
Mid-low Middle
Oval Handle
Antiscuff with edge tape
Shoo Goo toe guard
Hard Pressed

whats yours??

Grade 1+
2lbs 6/7oz (i like a light bat)
light pick up
SH
bowed blade
thick edges and toe
cane handle
anti scuff
1 half grip on bottom 1 whole grip over the top
10 grains
anti-scuff sheet
mid-low middle
oval handle
shoe goo

Grade 1+++
2lbs 8/9oz (i like a light bat)
light pick up
SH
bowed blade
thick edges and toe
cane handle
Hammer Edge (newbery)
2 white grips
12 grains
mid middle
oval/round handle
shoe goo

Thats my dream bat...whether ill ever own it is another question!

Best willow money can buy
2lb 10
light pick up
SH
bowed blade
very thick edges
Sarawak handle
Hammer Edge (newbery)
1.5 grips
9-11 grains
2 Heartwood on inside edge
mid to high middle
Oval handle
Toe Guard (Never tried Shoo Goo)

Grade 1
2lbs 7
light pick up
SH LB
straight blade
thick edges
12 grains
low middle
oval handle
shoe goo

Best willow in the world
2lbs 9ozs
Feather pick up
SH
Standard blade
Big edges
Bowed blade
Carbon handle
1 grip
8-11 grains
no heartwood
Mid to slightly higher middle
Oval handle
Toe guard

Handpicked willow
2.9 Dead weight - by feel in the hands is more important
Mid placed Middle
SH - standard blade
large(ish) edges
Lightly pressed
Slight Bow
Oval Cane handle
couple of shevron grip
12-16 grains
quater maximum heartwood
No Toe guard, Antiscuff

Ask a batmaker for that, and you'll end up with a beauty, in time you shall see some of mine

2lb 8
Light Pick-up
SH long Blade
G1+
No Heartwood
25-30mm edges
Slight Bow
8 Grains
Mid-low Middle
Oval Handle
Antiscuff with edge tape
toe guard
Hard Pressed

G1+
2lb 8/9oz
SH Standard Blade
Bit of egde Heartwood
Thick edges
Slight Bow
8 or more Grains
Mid Placed Middle
Anti Scuff with Edge Tape
Lightly Pressed
2 Chevron Grips

gray nicolls nitro.

G1+
2lb9
long blade
thickish edges
slight bow with a squarish bottom
15 grains
lowish middle
anti scuff sheet
not bothered if it is knocked in
2 watever grips lol

These are the specs I have given to CJI for my new Ultimate 1000!!

Super Best, G1+ willow
2lb7oz
Super Short Handle
Very high, concaved spine
Medium edges (25mm or so)
12+ straight grains
2-4 outside grains heartwood
Long, high-to-medium middle
Helicopter-blade scuff sheet
Oval cane handle
Knocked In
1 chevron grip under spiral

i play north of england and i dont have a clue what heartwood is.
what is it

Jp wrote:in time you shall see some of mine

Do you par-take in a alittle bit of batmaking JP?

micky wrote:i play north of england and i dont have a clue what heartwood is.
what is it

The darker coloured wood that you often see on the edge of bats (particularly Pro bats), comes form the middle, or heart, of the tree. The white wood being called sapwood.

Lots of debate as to the qualities of heartwood as opposed to sapwood. Which I won't go into............. Unless asked.

Lets go into it ABC
I have heard and always believed heartwood is harder and less likely to break then some idiot told me that heartwood is weaker and now im confused!

Well the theory goes (and this is my opinion, and no way definitive fact!) that the heartwood, when it's a tree, contains a higher resin content than the surrounding sapwood, the white wood. During the drying process this difference in resin content will give the blade different characteristics depending on the % make up of the wood type.

If you look at a lot of the bats you see used on TV by the top players you'll see a lot can be up to 50% heartwood. Some have it on inside edge some on outside edge. The theory is that the heartwood has greater rebound properties due to its initial higher resin content. Now whether it lasts longer because of this is difficult to say. Personally I dont think it affects the lifespan of the bat much, but I do like some heartwood in the blade in terms of performance.
Some people dont like it purely on looks.

But there must be something in the fact that most bats chosen by the top players (who basically have access to whatever willow they want) contain some heartwood and have nice straight grains........

All this aside, dont forget its the actually bat making process that gives you a good bat. A nice piece of willow to start with helps, but it can quite easily be made into a dud..........

Hope that helps?

very helpful for me aswell ABC! Thanks for that cleared a lot of things up!

i like heartwood on my bat. i hope it does help prevent cracking

not a fan of lots of heartwood, but a samll piece is ok

LOL I tried a guys bat the other day and loved it:

SIZE 5!!! 2LBS 9OZ!!!
LONG SWELL- CANT REALLY SAY HIGH OR LOW COZ ITS BOTH!
25MM EDGES
ROUND HANDLE
6 GRAINS

IT FLIPPIN WELL PINGS!

Anyway my fave specs:

Weight: 2lbs 5oz
Size: in between 6 and harrow
Middle position: long but not that long- starts slightly lower than normal and finishes slightly higher.
Edges: Tapering big time at toe and shoulders to make the biggest point 25mm.
Spine: Thinnish toe but once the swell grows it stays big for quite away along the bat and then really tapers towards the shoulders. I like about 60mm spine height.
Concaving: About 3/10 on the concaving scale lol.
Bow: Nice gentle bow, proably about 1.5cm in all.
Grains: 12 sapwood plus 2 heartwood on the outside edge.
Handle: Round but a slight oval towards the bottom.
Grips: 2, the first a regular spiral and the second the oe on top chevron but the bands close together. Both black.
No anti scuff!
Stickers: Newberry cadbury but with the grizzly bits on.

does no 1 use a long blade on here

BrianLara400* wrote:

Jp wrote:in time you shall see some of mine

Do you par-take in a alittle bit of batmaking JP?

JP's pic looks like the one from Hawk cricket bats!

micky wrote:does no 1 use a long blade on here

Do you then??

2lb 8
Light Pick-up
SH
Superbest (g1+)
2 grains of Heartwood
25-30mm edges
Slight Bow
10-12 Grains
mid-high Middle
Oval Handle
Antiscuff with edge tape
Toe Guard
Hard Pressed